Sunday, December 25, 2011

14. Hoi An

We had a bit of trouble deciding on our next destination. We knew we wanted to head north up the coast and that we would fly into Da Nang but choosing where to stay was difficult.  We thought maybe Da Nang itself, but after reading lots of web pages and listening to other people we decided to go for the smaller town of Hoi An.  It’s a Unesco heritage site and it sounded idylic so we booked a hotel on the outskirts “HoiAn Pacific Hotel.”


We arrived at the hotel in the rain and where shown to our room overlooking the pool.  It is a beautiful hotel with extremely friendly staff.  The hotel has a "Cham Show" - local historic dancing - every night during dinner. 

 Most of the dancers are hotel staff.

We spent time exploring Hoi An. 

 Visiting the museums, old houses, temples etc. 

The town is very picturesque especially at night time where many of the buildings are lit with lanterns.

  There is a river that runs through the town.  About a month before we arrived it had flooded the town.  Some of the building were under three feet of water. 

While we were there the river did overflow onto the road but not to any great extent. You could still drive through  it. 



We took a trip on a cyclo through the town.  Don’t think the driver realised what he was taking on when he said we would both fit in the one cyclo.  He certainly had his exercise that day.


The weather was quite unpredictable so we didn’t want to prebook trips. We just decided on a day to day basis what we would do.  One morning it was dry and looked like it would stay that way so we mentioned to the staff at breakfast that we were thinking of going to the Marble Mountains.  The waitress told the Catering Manager who happened to be there.  He came over and said that he could arrange a car and driver for us at a good price. (Syd's always up for a bargain). He also suggested going to the Cham Museum in Da Nang at the same time which we agreed was a good idea. He made a phone call and told us when the driver would arrive and then said that as he was actually not working that day he would come too and act as our tour guide at the museum.

We set off and Vu the Catering manager explained a lot about the Vietnamese culture and places in the area.  At the museum he was able to explain in detail about the artifacts which all came from temples in the areas around Da Nang, many from My Son.  He was very informative and was able to answer all the questions that we asked.

After a while we set off to Marble Mountains which is a group of limestone mountains just outside Da Nang.  The locals use the marble to carve many large and small statues etc.  We arrived at the mountains and paid our entrance fee which includes a trip up to the visitors level by lift. 


On exiting the lift you see a Chinese pagoda which is the first of many temples within the mountain. There is a pathway which leads you to the temples and caverns that you can visit. 

We entered one cave and was followed by a local woman with a torch who showed us the cavern then shown her torch at a small hole quite high up the cave and said that that would lead us up to the exit.  I thought she was joking at first but no. 

We clambered up the rocks and squeezed through the hole to a smaller cavern with another exit which required a bit of climbing. We eventually made it out onto the top of the mountain. My legs were like jelly. 

Needless to say we’ve no pictures of us climbing through the caverns because we needed our hands to climb. We now know that we’ll never take up pot holing as a hobby!  After sitting for a while to let my legs recover we carried on along the trail.  We came to another cave. 


Did wonder what was going to be inside.  On entering this cave we had to go down some stairs where we came upon a huge cavern where a large buddha had been carved into the rock and a temple had been created.  We really enjoyed the Marble mountains.
We were kind of adopted by some of the staff at the hotel.  They were all very friendly. Two of the waitresses – Muoi and Sa invited us to go out with them for a drink one evening after they finished work.  It was good to get to know them.  They invited us out for breakfast the next day.  They arrived at the hotel on two motorbikes.  Somehow they managed to aquire two helmets for us and Sa gave Syd the keys for her motorbike and told us to follow them. (For those who don’t know – I DON’T do motorbikes). 

We headed off into Hoi An.  Thank goodness the traffic is nothing like as busy as Saigon and Hanoi. 

We arrived at a little Vietnamese restaurant somewhere in the middle of Hoi An where we were given typical local food which we enjoyed we then took them for coffee before heading back to the hotel because Muoi was due to start work. 

In the evening one of the waiters – Roben and his girlfriend, Lyna invited us out for dinner.  It was another motorbike trip throught Hoi An to a little restaurant which appeared to be more in the outskirts.  It was quite a quiet restaurant although there was another group of backpackers enjoying the food too. 

We were joined by Robens brother – I think his name is Rick.
We were really touched by the generosity shown by these friends.
Sa and Muoi even came out to the airport to see us off when we left.  It was the first time that they’d been to the airport.
We’ll definately never forgot our time in Hoi An and the new friends that we made and the fun we had.

Monday, December 19, 2011

13. Nha Trang

We decided that we needed to have a bit of a rest after a few weeks of non stop sight seeing so we headed to the beach at Nha Trang.  Only problem was when we arrived it was very windy and rainy. 

 Winter in Vietnam!  Our hotel overlooked the beach which is seemingly one of the best in the world. Can’t really say that just now. The waves that were pounding the beach were about 10 – 15 feet high. At least it wasn’t cold.
We had booked the hotel for a week so we decided to make the best of it.




The rain was intermittent and we did occasionally see some sun.  When the sun was out we went to the beach and when it was windy and wet we went for a massage or a few drinks


Syd thinks he's getting a bit thinner.

Can't see it myself.


There is a theme park – Vinpearlland - in Nha Trang, so we spent a few hours there.  You have to take the cable car to reach the island that it is on. 

 The cable car is the longest cable car over water in the world.  We were surprised that it didn’t swing about too much in the wind. The theme park is quite small.  A few large rides and some indoor machine games – racing cars, motorbikes, shoot ‘em up games etc.  There is also a waterpark , beach and aquarium.  All included in the entrance fee.



When the sun did make an appearance the beach was quite busy.  The street vendors moved their stalls onto the sands.

Anyone for freshly cooked lobster?


Did a little bit of shopping too.  One kilo of mandarins for 50p.




We managed to have a good week in Nha Trang despite the weather. 

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

12. Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

We flew the short distance from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City.  It took about 30 minutes and was relatively expensive but due to the type of visa we had arranged we had to fly into an international airport in Vietnam. The visa and immigration procedures were straight forward and we were soon out of the airport and on our way to the hotel. 
The hotel was in the middle of HCM city close to Ben Thanh Market.  We checked in and went for a walk about.  The traffic was unbelievable. 

There are 10 million people in HCM and about as many motorbikes.  Crossing the road is almost impossible. 

We were only in HCM for three nights so we decided to book a couple of trips through the hotel.  We booked the city tour for the first day and a trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels for the second day. First morning we were waiting in reception for our transport.  A few others were waiting too.  The girl that ran the tour desk came over to say that the bus was there and we all went out.  It was only about 15 minutes later after everyone had been picked up did we realise that the bus we were on was for Cu Chi Tunnels. Not the City Tour.  There was nothing we could do, we’d just have to change the next trip. The five other people from our hotel who were also on this trip were a group of four football players and their coach from Singapore.

They play for Home United FC and this was a trip to celebrate the end of their season.

They’d finished 2nd in the league, losing top spot by one point.  They were all really good company. 
The trip to the tunnels took about and hour and a half with a short break to visit a small factory which made decorated wooden panels and gifts. 

 When we arrived at the tunnels we were taken on a group tour.  We were shown a short film about the war as it had happened in the immediate area and how the tunnels had been used. 


Next we were shown the small entrances to some of the tunnels and some of the traps that had been used against the Americans. 



We were given the chance to go through some of the tunnels.  You could choose the length of tunnel you took.  We opted for the 30 metre tunnel. 



It was very small, about shoulder width. We had to practically crawl through because it was so low.  It was very hot and claustrophobic. Certainly not built for Scots folk.  At the end of the tour there was the oportunity to fire some of the weapons.  We tried out the AK47. Ten rounds each was enough.

The next day we took the city tour. 

First stop was the War Remnants Museum.  It shows graphic photographs of the war and the injuries and destruction caused by the chemical weapons used by the Americans.

Some of the images are horrific.



There are many weapons and vehicles on display which were left at the end of the war. 

We also visited the Reunification Palace which is now a museum. It was used as the control rooms and Headquarters during the war until Saigon fell to the Army from the north. All the rooms are shown as they were in the sixties.


It was interesting to see the war rooms and all the old equipment from that time.


Chinatown has the largest Chinese community outside China.  They have a large market where the locals sell there wares. 

Lots of food stalls with items I couldn’t identify.  The market was very busy. You couldn’t move for the porters bringing in supplies and deliverys being sent off.

Another stop was Notre Dame Cathedral. 

It is a smaller replica of the cathedral in Paris.  It was disappointing.  I thought it would be more ornate but was in fact very plain. 

 Across the road from the cathedral is the Post Office. 

Architecturally it is a beautiful building.  Inside it is very old fashioned with booths where you can make international phone calls and counters for various postal procedures.

Our stay in Ho Chi Minh City was very short but we saw as much as was possible in the time we were there.  I certainly won’t miss the traffic.